|
Entertainment Guide
2006 CAR Conference
Special thanks to The Star-Ledger for providing this information for our conference attendees.
Getting Around Nearby Destinations:
Hoboken, Jersey City, Manhattan
Newark Dining Things to Do in Newark The Gateway Hilton is within walking distance of most of the downtown attractions, the lively "Ironbound" neighborhood, and Newark Penn Station, which has two local train services into Manhattan, with some interesting stops in between.
Generally, anyplace within walking distance is safe during daylight hours, and at night in groups. While Newark still has one of the highest crime rates in the nation, the vast majority of crime occurs in the city's residential neighborhoods.
Cabs are readily available just outside the hotel near the train station. Cabs line up there looking for fares until fairly late at night.
For trips into New York City, your best bet is to use one of the two rail systems at Newark Penn Station. To get there, use the indoor walkway that connects the hotel lobby with the station. It's open most of the time, except from 12:30 a.m. to 4:30 a.m. Otherwise, you can go down one level from the lobby and simply walk across the street to the station.
Either NJ Transit or the PATH trains will get you into New York.
For Midtown Manhattan — and easy access to a variety of subways that can take you just about anywhere in New York, from Coney Island to the Cloisters — take NJ Transit. The one-way fare for the 20-minute ride is $3.75, or you can buy a $6.25 off-peak round-trip ticket. There are ticket vendors and machines in the station's main concourse and additional machines on the train platforms. New York-bound trains leave from platforms one and two. The tickets are good for any train that runs between Newark and New York. Check the monitors in the station for the next train heading to New York.
If you are looking to go to Lower Manhattan, the PATH system is the best option. You get to the PATH trains through boarding platforms one and two. Fares are $1.50 and you pay at the turnstile. The dollar slots on the tickets machine are finicky, so it helps to have a couple of quarters with you. The PATH train, a 22-minute trip, will end at the World Trade Center station.
Another popular destination is Hoboken. The NJ Transit service between Hoboken and Newark Penn Station is less frequent and stops earlier in the evening. If you take the PATH to Hoboken, you have to switch trains at Journal Square in Jersey City. With a timely connection, the trip may take about 30 minutes. During late-night hours, the connections at Journal Square are not so frequent. Jersey City offers tours of two landmark movie palaces, a look at the area's glory days and nascent revival, and a tasty (and cheap) lunch or dinner.
WARNING: The PATH trains stop running shortly after midnight; the NJ Transit trains to New York stop running around 2 a.m. — plan your trip accordingly.
The birthplace of baseball (likely, but disputed) and Frank Sinatra (that's proven, bub) the Mile Square City is hard to beat for a colorful place to stroll, eat and drink without the hassle of heading into Manhattan. Unlike many spruced up waterfront destinations across the country, this place has retained much of its character and characters. Hoboken is small and cramped, making it impossible to find parking, but the perfect place to explore on foot. To get there, take the PATH train from Newark Penn Station. Change trains at Journal Square or Grove Street and hop on a Hoboken-bound train.
Start with a visit to the storied waterfront made famous in the 1954 Marlon Brando film "On the Waterfront." These days, the old docks have been replaced by new development and a string of parks with striking NYC views. Face east as the sun sets and you'll see the entire skyline light up in orange — a treat only we Jerseyans get to see.
Hungry? Thirsty? Head two blocks west to Washington Street, the town's main thoroughfare lined with a dizzying array of restaurants and bars — the legacy of the huge number of liquor licenses issued to cater to hard drinking longshoremen. They range from frathouse beer halls to Irish pubs, to trendy jazz bars.
For live rock n' roll, check out the fabled Maxwell's, (1039 Washington St., 201-653-1703) where indie rockers and surprisingly big names play in a wonderfully tiny back room.
While gentrification has glossed over a lot of this town's gritty past, touches of the old Hoboken remain in the neighborhoods of old brownstones off Washington Street.
Walk west toward Adams Street where Italian grandmas keep watch on the stoop, delis duke it out for who sells the best mutz (that's fresh mozzarella), and the specter of Ol' Blue Eyes looms over everything. Check out Leo's Grandezvous (200 Grand St., 201-659-9467) where you'll dine amid walls plastered with Sinatra's photo and a jukebox full of Frank. A few blocks away, at 415 Monroe St., there's a brick arch and a gold star marking his birth site.
Take the PATH train to Journal Square for tours of two landmark movie palaces, a look at the area's glory days and nascent revival, and a tasty (and cheap) lunch or dinner.
The city's old commercial center reflects the city's diverse population, particularly the South Asian, Egyptian, Hispanic and Filipino communities. Exiting the PATH station, cross the street to visit Loew's Jersey Theatre (54 Journal Square, 201-798-6055), an ornate 1929 movie palace in the process of being restored to its glory days, for screenings of old movies or a tour, or turn right to visit the even glitzier restored 1928 Stanley Theater (2932 Kennedy Blvd., 201-377-3100), now a Jehovah's Witness temple, but still open for daily tours.
Stop by Boulevard Drinks (48 Journal Square, 201-656-1855) for a classic Jersey chili dog or turn left and stroll down Kennedy Boulevard four blocks for top-notch treats made on site at Lee Sims Chocolates (743 Bergen Ave., 201-433-1308). Or cross the street, turn left and walk two blocks down to Newark Avenue's Little India to shop for saris, gold jewelry and other South Asian goods. Try a spicy crepe wrapped around your choice of filling at Dosa Hut (777 Newark Ave., 201-420-6660) and dessert at the Bengali Sweet House (836 Newark Ave., 201-798-9241).
Take the PATH train to the Grove Street station downtown for a smattering of good restaurants and cafes. Marco & Pepe's (289 Grove St., 201-860-9688) is a trendy American place with upscale prices and an extensive beer list. Across the street, Ria's Cafe (24 Mercer St., 201-915-0045) offers delicious Spanish/Caribbean fare at a moderate price. For a drink head to the artsy LITM (140 Newark Ave., 201-536-5557) or the Merchant (279 Grove St., 201-200-0202) for a more typical bar experience. Lounge over a cup of joe (or latte) at Sweet Priscilla's (530 Jersey Ave., 201-332-7782). Near the Exchange Place stop, La Rustique (84.5 Morris St., 201-860-4010) has awesome thin-crust pizza. The restaurants around the Pavonia/Newport stop are generally more upscale because they cater to a corporate clientele, but Confucius Asian Bistro (558 Washington Blvd., 201-386-8898) offers quality Chinese food.
There are two train services that can get you into New York City, the PATH system and the NJ Transit system. For more details, see "Getting Around" at the beginning of this guide.
While the wonders of Manhattan cannot be captured in a few paragraphs, here are some general descriptions of the neighborhoods served by the trains that run past the Hilton.
On the PATH system, it's a straight shot from Newark to lower Manhattan and the former site of the World Trade Center towers. There are a lot of interesting historic sites to see here during daylight hours, but if you have only one night to spend in Manhattan, this isn't where you want to be.
A better option for nightlife would be to take the PATH Red Line train to Journal Square and switch to the Yellow Line to 33rd Street. Once you cross into Manhattan, the train makes several stops in the heart of Greenwich Village. While much of Manhattan is on a grid system, with streets going east-west and avenues going north-south, this part of Manhattan is older and even veteran New Yorkers sometimes get lost. Picking up a cheap portable street map at the train stations would be a smart play.
While it's quite fun to just get off the train and walk around and discover, here are some recommendations:
The first Manhattan stop on the PATH Yellow Line will put you on Christopher Street between Greenwich and Hudson. If you are looking for places to dine, this is "Molto Mario" territory — as in famed chef Mario Batali. For upscale Mario, there's Babbo's at 110 Waverly Place, between 6th and MacDougal (212-777-0303). For affordable Mario try Po at 31 Cornelia Street For thin-crust pizza Mario-style, it's Otta Enoteca Pizzeria, 1 Fifth Ave, at 8th St. (212-995-9559).
If you want to try the New York mecca for tomato pie, head to Joe's Pizza at 7 Carmine St. Do you have a hankering for a hefty (is a half-pound enough?) flame-broiled burger? Stop by Corner Bistro at 331 W. 4th St. at Jane Street (212-242-9502). For Jamaican and Southern eats, try Maroons Restaurant and Bar at 244 W. 16th St. (212-206-8640.). Looking for some laughs? Head to the Comedy Cellar at 117 MacDougal St., (212-254-3480) or Comedy Village at 82 West 3rd St., (212-477-1000) For music try the famous Bitter End at 147 Bleecker St. between Thompson and LaGuardia for bar bands and singer-songwriters.
Legendary cabaret can be found at Rose's Turn, 55 Grove. St, between Bleecker and Seventh Avenue, South. Into jazz or blues? Your choices are Arthur's Tavern, 57 Grove St. (212-675-6879), Club Groove, 125 MacDougal St. (212-254-9393), and the Blue Note at 131 W. Third St. (212-475-8592). Or, if you want to take a short trip to the east side (and try your hand at hailing a New York taxi), you will be rewarded at Blue Smoke, at 116 E 27th St. (212-447-7733). There you'll find one of the city's best rib joints upstairs and the Jazz Standard club downstairs.
If you're not in the mood for jazz, head down the street to Park Avenue Country Club, a gorgeous upscale sports bar (381 Park Ave South, 212-685-3636). For clubbing, you can try your luck getting past the ropes at Luahn (59 Fifth Ave., between 12th and 13th), or Bungalow 8 (515 W. 27th, between 10th and 11th), and Crobar (530 W. 28th St., near 10th Avenue).
If you take the PATH Yellow Line to the last stop, or take NJ Transit into Manhattan, you'll be at New York Penn Station, (not to be confused with Newark Penn Station).
The station is beneath Madison Square Garden, where the Big East Conference is having its championship tournament this weekend.
From here, it is a 10-minute walk up Seventh Avenue to Times Square — traditionally the tourism hub of the city and the heart of the Broadway theater district. Oh, and there's also a newspaper nearby which has hired a few NICARians recently.
While Times Square is a site to behold, and the place to see world-class theater, it is also home to countless chain restaurants and tourist-trap attractions. So unless you are going someplace in particular, Greenwich Village is probably a better bet for a night of walking and exploration.
For dining choices farther afield, be sure to check the Nearby Destinations section.
Breakfast/Bakeries
Coutinho's, 88 Wilson Ave., Newark; 973-589-9316. Newark's Ironbound is home to scores of Brazilian and Portuguese restaurants; many get their bread and desserts from Coutinho's or Teixeira's (184 Ferry St.; 973-589-8875). You can't go wrong at either. Coutinho's custard cups are justly renowned. They make excellent espresso, too. Teixeira's may get the nod in the bread category. Try them both, and pick your favorite.
Lunches/Sandwiches
Hero King, 406 Market St., Newark; 973-344-2322. The best subs in Newark are made in this no-frills storefront a block from the train station. More than 200 subs march out of here on a good day. Don't be discouraged by the long lines; the guys behind the counter fill orders with lightning speed. You can even get pancakes and French toast in the morning; burgers, hot dogs, and pastas are also available. Looking for Bigfoot? It's right here. The hefty sandwich includes nearly every meat and cheese in the shop.
Daily Soup, 102 Halsey St., Newark; 973-286-7687. Downtown soup joint offers a dozen or so soups daily, and the lineup goes well beyond chicken noodle and beef barley. You might find Senegalese peanut soup, Argentinean beef soup, Yucatan chicken-lime soup, and other globe-trotting brews. Top-sellers are Tuscan tomato; lentil; and Moroccan curry with couscous. The Manhattan clam chowder is so-so, but all the tomato-based soups range from tasty to terrific. Personal favorites: the butternut-squash-with-apples soup, and the tomato and sweet sausage. Open 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday.
Hobby's, 32 Branford Place, Newark; 973-623-0410. Venerable Jewish deli/luncheonette feeds hundreds of downtown workers, from judges to garbage men, every day. All the standards are here — corned beef, pastrami, lox, tongue, knishes, triple-decker clubs, matzo ball soup, cream soda. Closed on Sundays.
Hamburgao, 28 Lafayette St., Newark; 973-465-1776. "Hamburgao'' is Portuguese for "big burger,'' and the burgers at this Brazilian fast food restaurant — you read that right — live up to the description. But not because of the amount of meat; the sandwiches are jam-packed with pieces of corn, lettuce, tomato, mayo, mozzarella, bacon, egg, and potato sticks, among other ingredients. This sure isn't McDonald's or Burger King. Two other must-trys: the enroladinho de presunto e queijo (fried pastry filled with ham and cheese) and the coxinha catupiry (chicken balls with Brazilian cheese).
Emilia's Deli, 234 Jefferson St., Newark; 973-344-9370. Dollar bills are pinned to pictures of the Blessed Virgin, sweet old Italian women stir pots of soup, and you sit at communal tables. It's a shout-your-order-and-help-yourself-to-the-bread kind of place. Daily specials. Want to keep it simple? The prosciutto, fresh mozzarella and sweet red peppers sandwich is a knockout. Closed weekends.
Abin's, 184 Elm St., Newark; 973-589-3349. Closed Sundays. Deli/luncheonette located strategically — or conveniently, depending on how you look at it — across from St. James Hospital. No atmosphere to speak of, yet charming in a low-rent sort of way. This is no place for vegetarians; great dripping slabs of pork, turkey and brisket are sliced in front of you and deposited in rolls or on plates. There are a few tables in front, and a dining room out back for the overflow. Greasy and glorious.
Lunch/Dinner
Je's, 34 William St., Newark; 973-623-8848. The heart and soul of the New Jersey soul food universe, this family-style cafeteria and luncheonette has served the likes of Shaquille O'Neal and Patti LaBelle. Popular dishes include smothered and fried chicken, catfish, liver, oxtails, meat loaf and short ribs. There's a galaxy of sides — mac and cheese, black-eyed peas, collard greens, string beans and pickled beets, among others. Open Tuesday through Sunday until 7:30 p.m.; closed Monday.
Dinner
Fornos of Spain, 47 Ferry St., Newark; 973-589-4767. Ferry Street, a minute's walk from the train station, is nerve central for the Ironbound, its river of commerce and cuisine. There are many no-frills storefront restaurants, and then there are places like Fornos, a stylish, spacious restaurant. The menu is Spanish meets Continental, which explains non-Ironbound-like dishes like carpaccio, duck in cherry sauce, and stuffed artichokes with crab meat and cream cheese. You can't go wrong with the sangrias; both white and red are good. Many dishes, though, seem to be hit and miss. Recommended: the roasted shank of lamb, filet mignon, and blackened salmon. The portions here are among the Ironbound's biggest.
Iberia Tavern and Restaurant, 80-84 Ferry St., Newark; 973-344-7603. Iberia Tavern and Restaurant, and Iberia Peninsula, across the street, are the first names that come to mind when many people think "Ironbound restaurant.'' They're owned by the same people; Iberia Tavern is livelier and slightly larger than its sister restaurant. Both offer a Portuguese menu; most of the staff speak English, Portuguese and Spanish. You haven't lived, or died, until you try the Brazilian speciality known as rodizio. It's essentially a nonstop meat orgy; waiters bring skewers of meat — pork sausage, chicken, pork tenderloin, sirloin steak, steak wrapped in bacon, pork ribs, chicken hearts — until you tell them to stop, or you keel over. It's a must-try experience — unless, of course, you're a vegetarian — and Iberia Tavern's is among the better ones (the best I've ever had is at Solar do Minho in Belleville, a 10-minute ride from downtown Newark). Iberia is fun and festive; there are often strolling guitar players. Have dinner here, cap it off with a bracing espresso and dessert at Teixeira's, Coutinho's or another of the Ironbound's many cafes/bakeries.
Maize, Robert Treat Hotel, 50 Park Place, Newark; 973-639-1200. Looking for that one big splurge downtown? Maize is the place. This elegant eatery has garnered positive if not enthusiastic reviews since it opened five years ago. "New American cuisine'' is the byword here. Star-Ledger reviewer Cody Kendall gave the restaurant three stars in her visit, recommending, among other dishes, the Provencale crusted rack of lamb, grilled ribeye steak, and the baby scallop and rock shrimp sautee. She loved the desserts, especially the creme brulee or warm jasmine pudding.
Casa Vasca, 141 Elm St., Newark; 973-465-1350. Forno's, Iberia Peninsula and Iberia Tavern, all on Ferry Street, get most of the publicity, but my choice for an Ironbound dining experience would be Casa Vasca. It sits, almost as an afterthought, on a residential street. It's a cozy little hideaway, with white tablecloths, flowers and a menu reflecting owner Maria Aurre's Spanish-Basque background. Try the rabbit stew — tender, not gamey, in a silky brown sauce. Also recommended: the baked red snapper, the veal in sherry sauce, and pulpo a la Gallega — octopus Galician style. You'll find better sangria elsewhere, but not better food.
Assaggini Di Roma, 134 Clifford St., Newark; 973-466-3344. The dining room soundtrack veers from opera and Sinatra to Billy Joel and the Spencer Davis Group, but Assaggini Di Roma (A Little Taste of Rome) may be the city's best Italian restaurant. The provolone and grilled sausage appetizer, a plate of cheese and juicy, fennel-flecked sausage, would do an Italian street festival proud. The linguine with seafood is superlative. Werewolves beware, though. The folks here do love their garlic. Leave room for the fresh, creamy cannoli and cheesecake. Don't forget to try the house wine. Open seven days a week.
Late Night
Krug's Tavern, 118 Wilson Ave., Newark; 973-465-9795. The Ironbound is more than just Portuguese and Brazilian; Krug's (pronounced Kroog's) may serve the city's best burger. It may take a while to materialize, but it's worth every minute. Order one with the beer-battered onion rings and a cold one; you'll thank me later. Check the daily specials; they are written on pieces of construction paper taped to the TV.
The Priory, 233 West Market St., Newark; 973-639-7885. Newark's longest-running jazz club offers shows every Friday night. It's in a renovated church on Market Street close to the University of Medicine and Dentistry of New Jersey, a short cab ride from the Gateway. Admission is free, though they do ask you to buy a drink. The shows are always decent; at times, they can be great. There's a pretty good soul food restaurant in the back of the place.
The Savoy Grill, 60 Park Place, Newark; 973-286-1700. Around the corner from the Robert Treat Hotel, the Grill has a nice bar; the food is good, and the place offers jazz on Friday and Saturday nights.
For more dining choices, see the Newark Dining Guide from The Star-Ledger.
The Newark Museum (49 Washington St., 973-596-6550) should be high on anyone's list of stops to make on a trip to Newark. It's open Wednesdays through Sundays from noon to 5 p.m. Admission is free, though they do ask for a donation. There is usually a traveling exhibit or two that are featured, but the permanent exhibits include originals by the likes of Georgia O'Keefe and Andy Warhol. Be sure to stop by the Tibetan altar upstairs. It is one of the few in the country and was consecrated by the Dalai Lama. If it's a nice day, check out the garden behind the museum. The Ballantine House next to (but part of) the museum is a restored Victorian mansion worthy of seeing.
Getting to the museum from the Gateway is easy. Walk up Raymond Boulevard, make a right onto Broad Street. Continue north on Broad to Washington Park. The museum is on the far side of the park. In the center of Washington Park is a statue of Seth Boyden, one of America's great inventors who was an inspiration to Edison. A list of Boyden's inventions appears on a plaque on the statute's pedestal. On the eastern side of the park, along Broad Street, is a statue of Columbus, site of a famous brawl scene from "The Sopranos."
Between the Gateway and museum is Military Park. In the park is one of the country's great outdoor sculptures. It's by Gutzon Borglum and is called "The Wars of America." Borglum is the sculptor responsible for Mount Rushmore. "The Wars of America," which depicts every war this country was involved in between the Revolutionary War and World War I, was his final major piece before leaving for South Dakota and the Mount Rushmore project. "The Wars of America" includes a conscientious objector. See if you can find him.
At the north end of Military Park is the New Jersey Performing Arts Center, the state's major indoor performance venue.
Branch Brook Park is the oldest county park in the United States. It was designed by the firm of Frederick Olmstead, the landscape architect who designed Central Park in New York City. Adjacent to the park on Clifton Avenue is the Cathedral of the Sacred Heart (89 Ridge St.), designated a basilica by Pope John Paul during a visit to this area in the mid-1990s. It's one of only a handful of basilicas in the U.S. and is worth a peek inside if you are in the neighborhood or into the Catholic Church. It can be reached via a short cab ride.